On first glance, Coire Etchachan seems unremarkable.  On a map, a horseshoe of tight contours; on land, a chunk cut out of the vast Cairngorm plateau, smoothed and rounded by glaciers of a time long passed.  Flanked by two footpaths, one above and one below, the corrie sees its fair share of hill-goers as they cross from one to the other, sometimes staying a while at the bothy in its centre...